Kashmir - The Paradise - Day 6: Pahalgam

The riverfront stay was amazing...It was located in between the mountains with the river roaring in front... incredible  views...The rooms are of basic standards, food is minimal but tasty but service is exceptional.

Incidentally we met the owner of the property, a doctor by profession and we had a nice conversation over a hot cup of lime tea. Disturbance in Kashmir, various agencies behind it, underdeveloped infrastructure, state of tourism in the current environment, laziness of people due to easy money from tourists, menace of guides and ponywalas impacting the travel experience were the highlights of the chit chat.






There are many valleys in Pahalgam and lots of opportunities for trekking. Beautiful lakes up in the mountains are the highlights here...We couldn't go for trekking  due to limited time.

Chandanwadi
 Distance from Aru valley to Chandanwadi is about 27km. One of the routes to amarnath yatra starts from chandanwadi, a 32km long trek. The base camp at Nunwan was deserted. LIKE kashmir tourist spots, guides and ponywalas surrounded us with offers. A small river, snow covered peak and a pony ride to the holy cave was all thatchandanvadi offers for the traveller. The road till chamdanvadi was not that bad. But after Sonamarg and Gulmarg, Chandawadi can be skipped.






Aishmuquam
Aishmuqam is very famous and revered for the Muslims as it belongs to Sheikh Zain-ud-Din Wali who was a disciple of one of the principal Reshi in Kashmir, Sheikh Nur-ud-din. Zain-ud-Din is a famous saint of valley who was actually a Hindu Prince Zia Singh belonging to the princely state of Kishtwar. He lived in 15th century AD in this district. (Source: Ananthnag Online)





Aru Valley
Beautiful meadows are the highlight of Aru. It's the base camp for treks to Kolahoi Glacier, Lidderwat,  Tarsar-Marsar lakes. There are about 20 alpine lakes, peaks and meadows around the Aru Valley. The Kolahoi is the largest glacier in the Kashmir Valley.



Pahalgam belongs to these shepherds... Met this shepherd with his flock of sheep in the evening. A happy man... 


Going back home...


A natural drinking water source. Pure water from the mountains. That's what they have, no piped water supply. People here depend entirely on natural resources. 

A typical mud house of shepherds in Pahalgam.





Betab valley
Beautiful valley surrounded by mountains covered with snow and winding river flowing across the valley was like a painting by nature. The original name of the valley was huggan valley, but was renamed to betab valley after the movies starring Sunny Deol was shot in this valley.



A game of life...
Walking the narrow, empty road to Aru valley in the evening filled with cold winds and silence around, with green meadows and slow flowing Lidder river was a way to meet your own soul in the middle of nowhere. And suddenly we came across three boys with a rubber ball and wooden piece, around the curve playing their version of big game. For no reason they invited us to play a game, innocence of childhood we thought! There you go... I took the "bat", one of them went to bowl.. He runs in and bowls... I swung hard and for my luck the bat middles and the ball went.... for a four, declared one of the guy...

"Khush hua saab?"
"Mm...bahuth khush hua..." With a wide grin i replied.
"Abhi de do das rupaya! Apki kushi keliye!"

He smiled at me... A wicked smile... That small kids demand stuck me hard... Suddenly all the childish expressions on his face disappeared... I could see the struggle of life in his eyes. But also the hard reality of how lazy these people have become. Every traveller is an opportunity for them, an opportunity to make easy money! One of the valleys hard truths.

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