Travel and tell no one - Khalil Jibran
Text: Jess Jose; Photos: M K Paul
29 March 2018
Kundapura, Karnataka
The right turn of the steering wheel from kundapura was a long awaited moment in life. Seeing the signboard to kollur, my heart missed a beat. The topography of the land transformed all on a sudden. The hot highway drive was forgotten. The lush green vegetation of bushes and tall trees foretold the wonders awaiting ahead.
Kollur, the cradle of souparnika
Wiping away the fatigue of the long drive in a cold shower, the much coveted wandering commenced. The golden name souparnika have always seemed tantalizing. Mystic myths, so called lyrics, and the background of many a literature had tempted me to quest along the river. Wading through the old fashioned bus station, moving through the mud covered streets, in the twilight of the eve I encountered the river for the first time in life.
These waters that quench the woes of many, flows right into the hearts of the onlookers.
From the lap of souparnika feet moved as if in a trance, towards the temple.
Kollur is all a bustle round the clock. Curious wanderers, ardent devotees, young ones stepping to the threshold of knowledge.. all buzzed along the shrine. A dynamic variety of humanity moved around feeling awesome at the ancient architecture, sculpture, golden chariot, vast dining hall, long queues of pilgrims, splendid barn and ever present gurus who initiate learning. The temple premises imparts a long lasting impression in anyone’s memory lane.
Barefooted, I too followed the paths walked by numberless humans. Everything around evoked curiosity. Assimilating the grandeur and glory of the spot, I witnessed the nightfall
As the dusk dissolved in milky moonlit night, the nostalgic songs about the place hummed a lullaby in my ears. The Goddess of sleep kissed me good night.
Kollur, Kodajadri and Mookambika Temple
Kolluru or Kollur is a small temple-town situated at the foot of the Western Ghats and is famous for the Mookambika temple. Kollur also called Kolapura (in the name of sage called Kola Maharshi) one of the important places of pilgrimage in Karnataka State, which has a temple dedicated to supreme goddess Mookambika or Durga devi . The goddess Durga is called Mookambika as she is said to have slain the demon Mookasura. The goddess is described as in the form of a jyotirlinga incorporating both Shiva and Shakti. The panchaloha image of the goddess on Shri Chakra is stated to have been consecrated by Shri Adi Shankaracharya. The Divine Mother is said to be a manifestation of trigunas or triple forms such as Mahakali, Mahalakshmi & Mahasaraswati. The shikhara of the temple which is well gilded with gold is said to have been donated by Sankanna Savantha.
It is believed that Adi Shankaracharya had a vision of Sri Mookambika Devi and installed the deity here. The legend goes that Adi Shankara meditated at Kodachadri hills and Devi incarnated before him asking for his wish. He revealed his wish to install the Devi idol in a place in Kerala to worship where he wanted. Devi agreed but put forward a challenge that she will follow Shankara and he should not look back till he reaches his destination. But to test Shankara, Devi deliberately stopped the voice of her anklets when they reached Kollur whereupon Shankara turned and looked back because of doubt. Devi then asked Shankara to install her vigraha, just as he sees her, at that very location in Kollur. Another legend says that original temple is at Kodachadri peak,(1343 mt) which is at a distance of about 20 km from Kollur, also visible as a large mountain peak in front of the temple. There also a small temple dedicated to Mookambika near Kodachadri peak
March 30 2018
The forlorn idol of someshwar
Ruskin Bond's words echoed in my head… where one pilgrim go, others follow… only upto there… not any further.
The unending flow of devotees never diminished the serenity or holiness of Kollur.
The more people roamed, the more luring souparnika became. Fleeing from the hilly wildness of kollur, I headed to Someshwar in the morning.
A deserted temple on the seashore encircled by uncanny silence. May be God too enjoyed his peaceful naps there. Temple was closed. Shapeless rocks scattered in formless charm along the seashore. Amid the rocks my eyes focussed on a stone idol in the shape of a lovely lass. Was it a goddess cursed and abandoned on the seashore or the feminine grief metamorphosed into a stone? Each wave bestowed droplets of happiness and solace on it. Was it Nature's own mode of offering?
On brooding over for long, imagination whispered to me that the ocean and the idol are two souls forever in love.. Being together and feeling each other every second. My reasoning asserted it's Divinity interacting with Nature. Those are two inseparable truths. These thoughts stirred my heart. After all, the ultimate aim of travel and prayers is to move hearts and make them feel contented.
The stone idol and the ocean..still deep imprinted in my soul
Murudeswar, the tang of ocean
Leaving the idol of someswara to feast on her solitude , the wheels sped to Murudeswar. The gigantic statue of shiva, the biggest in Asiat till date captured attention. The tall tower at the entrance was crowded so was the beach near the temple. Cool breeze found it's ways to peep in through numerous tiny openings of the tower.
Moments from Mythology were depicted around the temple. Those golden statues blazed in the morning Sun. Amazingly, one could get the glimpse of blue waters from every nook and corner of the temple. Religious ceremonies were being performed in the adjoining wings of the main temple. Just gazing at the expanse of ocean from there could fill void inside to a certain extent.
How could one leave that spot without touching water? Crossing the pavement, i reached the seashore. The teeming crowd, the hawkers and water games changed the atmosphere of piety to a beach gala. Walking back without tasting ocean was unthinkable. A quickie in speed boat was the easy option and as the canoe surfed on the waves, my nostrils enjoyed the tang of the Sea. View from the boat was lovely. The temple premises appeared to be a fabulous painting mounted on the wall of the sky. Saving that shot in the canvass of mind, I bade adieu to Murudeswar.
Murudeswar
Murdeshwar is a town in Bhatkal Taluk of Uttara Kannada district in the state of Karnataka, India. Murdeshwar is another name of the Hindu god Shiva. The place is famous for the world's second tallest Shiva statue. The town lies on the coast of the Arabian Sea . This temple is built on the Kanduka Hill which is surrounded on three sides by the waters of the Arabian Sea. It is dedicated to Sri Lokankara, and a 20-storied gopura is the prime attraction of the the temple. According to the legend, Ravana brought the Atma Lingam from Mount Kailash. Lord Ganesha using his trick fooled Ravana on his way to Lanka and put down the Linga on the ground at Gokarna. Angered by this, Ravana tried to uproot and destroy the Linga. The broken pieces of the lingam were cast away. The covering cloth of the lingam fell at Kanduka Giri and the Murudeshwar temple was built at this site.
30 MARCH 2018
Jaunt to Kodajadri hills, Rendezvous of heaven and earth
Enthusiasm and eagerness pumped into ventricles and arteries every second. The 23 km Jeep journey to the foot of Kudajadri Hills was synonymous of a rollicking adventure. Moods roller-coastered from excitement to nervousness. The last 8 km in the midst of woods gave me vibes on the destination. One could hardly call it a road, just an inchoate passage over rocks. Hats off to those local Jeep drivers who transport people to and fro several times a day. The wind blew in red dust that made designs in the palette of bodies using the medium of sweat. Jeeps halt at the foot of the mountain near a small temple.
The green pond facing the temple bubbled countless emotions like fish popping up to its surface. As one group step up, another bunch amble down. Curiosity urged to discard the common path and choose a different one. It was narrow, steep and tough. Leaves on both sides were titillating. Unknown bushes and enormous trees rendered an enchanting ambience.
Like my wild thoughts, it appeared a path leading nowhere. Panting and sweating did not vex the thrill.
Soon a narrow cave dedicated to Lord Ganapati could be seen. Surprisingly, a child was doing the offerings there. Perhaps innocence is the pathway to God. Rest on the rocks before the cave, made breaths steady. The uphill hike resumed soon. The long way cast in a lot of emotions. One could contemplate and retrospect a lot during such walks. Was this truth that inspired Adi Sankara to select that very spot for his meditation? Seeing the destination at a distance ,heart palpitated faster. Eddies of mist rose from the valleys deep down. Crowd who moved up and down did not disturb my solitude. The tryst with peace is to be encountered alone. The zenith of the mountain and the ‘sarvajna Peetam’ aroused vibrant ebullience inside. The mute corners of the universe can edify any soul. Closing the eyes, one can hear the heart beats of the creator. Amassing a heart full of positive energy, I strode down the mountain. At the foot of the hill, a blushed setting Sun waved goodbye.
The return trip began with the Moon Rise. I closed my eyes. The entire day moved through minds gallery as rear view mirror images. A day as intoxicating as a reverie.
31 March 2018
Trotting to Malpey, transition from hills to waves
Wanderlust takes one to distant lands. Peregrination is an everlasting passion for some. The morning journey from kollur was alluring. Soon, the woods vanished and the highway lay black and long ahead. On one side of the road Souparnika river giggled in different tones at different spots and on the other side blue waters of the ocean tittered. Tempting seashore invited and the commute paused for a while at Maravanthe beach.Tasting tender coconuts in the shade of a tent, I inhaled the spirit of ocean. Ocean is like life – adventurous, challenging, calm, deep at different phases of life. The small shops along the highway appears like lanterns casting comfort and lights of information in the paths of travellers.
Malpey was waiting for me in the hot midday. It offers one a wide variety of water adventures even, scuba diving. The seafood delicacies cater the taste buds. Rambling along the seaside till 3 pm, a boat cruise to ST.MARY'S ISLAND started. 'water water everywhere' S.T Coleridge whispered in the core of my heart.
The reader in me contemplated on many sea faring literary works, as the boat tossed over the blue patches of waves.The rhythm of waves gives one ecstasy as it touches face with wet fingers. Cool breeze tapped on the shoulders as I leisurely entered the Peace beach on the island. The sand was all seashells and beach was all rocks. The dreamy mood of the hills gave way to a hullabaloo of excitement. Drenching in saline waters, I welcomed the mood swing. The wandering ended with the whistle from the serang of the boat. Strange sounds put an end to beautiful things. The canoe returned to Malpe.
The red horizon, the cool breeze, and the countless throngs on the beach enthused my weary being. Gazing at them amicably, from the room of the beach hotel, I awaited for the night fall.
What could be more romantic than a midnight walk on a deserted beach in the moonlight?
Ocean is so soothing in the night. It chuckles like granny, caress like mom, chatter and hum like a pal. It is a ravishing experience. Twilight made everything so dreamy. Even the thoughts of the chilly wind of that night gives me goosebumps. All these moments lay embedded in the panorama of my memories as holy water in a cascade to heal the boredom of mundane daily chores.
St. Mary's islands comprise of four small islands in the Arabian sea, off Malpe beach in Udupi. Old tales shows that, Vasco de Gama, the portuguese explorer landed at one of these islands after his expedition in 1498. He named this island "O Padrao de Santa Maria", as a dedication to Mother Mary. The current name is believed to have derived from this name. There are plenty of boats available from Malpe beach to islands. The last boat to that island is around 4:30 pm and from that island is at 6:00 pm.
Text: Jess Jose; Photos: M K Paul
Text: Jess Jose; Photos: M K Paul
29 March 2018
Kundapura, Karnataka
The right turn of the steering wheel from kundapura was a long awaited moment in life. Seeing the signboard to kollur, my heart missed a beat. The topography of the land transformed all on a sudden. The hot highway drive was forgotten. The lush green vegetation of bushes and tall trees foretold the wonders awaiting ahead.
Kollur, the cradle of souparnika
Wiping away the fatigue of the long drive in a cold shower, the much coveted wandering commenced. The golden name souparnika have always seemed tantalizing. Mystic myths, so called lyrics, and the background of many a literature had tempted me to quest along the river. Wading through the old fashioned bus station, moving through the mud covered streets, in the twilight of the eve I encountered the river for the first time in life.
These waters that quench the woes of many, flows right into the hearts of the onlookers.
From the lap of souparnika feet moved as if in a trance, towards the temple.
Kollur is all a bustle round the clock. Curious wanderers, ardent devotees, young ones stepping to the threshold of knowledge.. all buzzed along the shrine. A dynamic variety of humanity moved around feeling awesome at the ancient architecture, sculpture, golden chariot, vast dining hall, long queues of pilgrims, splendid barn and ever present gurus who initiate learning. The temple premises imparts a long lasting impression in anyone’s memory lane.
Barefooted, I too followed the paths walked by numberless humans. Everything around evoked curiosity. Assimilating the grandeur and glory of the spot, I witnessed the nightfall
As the dusk dissolved in milky moonlit night, the nostalgic songs about the place hummed a lullaby in my ears. The Goddess of sleep kissed me good night.
Kollur, Kodajadri and Mookambika Temple
Kolluru or Kollur is a small temple-town situated at the foot of the Western Ghats and is famous for the Mookambika temple. Kollur also called Kolapura (in the name of sage called Kola Maharshi) one of the important places of pilgrimage in Karnataka State, which has a temple dedicated to supreme goddess Mookambika or Durga devi . The goddess Durga is called Mookambika as she is said to have slain the demon Mookasura. The goddess is described as in the form of a jyotirlinga incorporating both Shiva and Shakti. The panchaloha image of the goddess on Shri Chakra is stated to have been consecrated by Shri Adi Shankaracharya. The Divine Mother is said to be a manifestation of trigunas or triple forms such as Mahakali, Mahalakshmi & Mahasaraswati. The shikhara of the temple which is well gilded with gold is said to have been donated by Sankanna Savantha.
It is believed that Adi Shankaracharya had a vision of Sri Mookambika Devi and installed the deity here. The legend goes that Adi Shankara meditated at Kodachadri hills and Devi incarnated before him asking for his wish. He revealed his wish to install the Devi idol in a place in Kerala to worship where he wanted. Devi agreed but put forward a challenge that she will follow Shankara and he should not look back till he reaches his destination. But to test Shankara, Devi deliberately stopped the voice of her anklets when they reached Kollur whereupon Shankara turned and looked back because of doubt. Devi then asked Shankara to install her vigraha, just as he sees her, at that very location in Kollur. Another legend says that original temple is at Kodachadri peak,(1343 mt) which is at a distance of about 20 km from Kollur, also visible as a large mountain peak in front of the temple. There also a small temple dedicated to Mookambika near Kodachadri peak
How to Get There:
By air, Kollur is two hours drive from Mangalore airport. One can reach Kollur Mookambika temple from Kundapura. Kundapura (KUDA) is one of the nearer railway station and road distance to Kollur Mookambika temple is ~38km. From Kundapura plenty of private express buses are available(every 15 min) to Kollur Mookambika temple . Plenty of private taxies are also there.
March 30 2018
The forlorn idol of someshwar
Ruskin Bond's words echoed in my head… where one pilgrim go, others follow… only upto there… not any further.
The unending flow of devotees never diminished the serenity or holiness of Kollur.
The more people roamed, the more luring souparnika became. Fleeing from the hilly wildness of kollur, I headed to Someshwar in the morning.
A deserted temple on the seashore encircled by uncanny silence. May be God too enjoyed his peaceful naps there. Temple was closed. Shapeless rocks scattered in formless charm along the seashore. Amid the rocks my eyes focussed on a stone idol in the shape of a lovely lass. Was it a goddess cursed and abandoned on the seashore or the feminine grief metamorphosed into a stone? Each wave bestowed droplets of happiness and solace on it. Was it Nature's own mode of offering?
On brooding over for long, imagination whispered to me that the ocean and the idol are two souls forever in love.. Being together and feeling each other every second. My reasoning asserted it's Divinity interacting with Nature. Those are two inseparable truths. These thoughts stirred my heart. After all, the ultimate aim of travel and prayers is to move hearts and make them feel contented.
The stone idol and the ocean..still deep imprinted in my soul
Murudeswar, the tang of ocean
Leaving the idol of someswara to feast on her solitude , the wheels sped to Murudeswar. The gigantic statue of shiva, the biggest in Asiat till date captured attention. The tall tower at the entrance was crowded so was the beach near the temple. Cool breeze found it's ways to peep in through numerous tiny openings of the tower.
Moments from Mythology were depicted around the temple. Those golden statues blazed in the morning Sun. Amazingly, one could get the glimpse of blue waters from every nook and corner of the temple. Religious ceremonies were being performed in the adjoining wings of the main temple. Just gazing at the expanse of ocean from there could fill void inside to a certain extent.
How could one leave that spot without touching water? Crossing the pavement, i reached the seashore. The teeming crowd, the hawkers and water games changed the atmosphere of piety to a beach gala. Walking back without tasting ocean was unthinkable. A quickie in speed boat was the easy option and as the canoe surfed on the waves, my nostrils enjoyed the tang of the Sea. View from the boat was lovely. The temple premises appeared to be a fabulous painting mounted on the wall of the sky. Saving that shot in the canvass of mind, I bade adieu to Murudeswar.
Murudeswar
Murdeshwar is a town in Bhatkal Taluk of Uttara Kannada district in the state of Karnataka, India. Murdeshwar is another name of the Hindu god Shiva. The place is famous for the world's second tallest Shiva statue. The town lies on the coast of the Arabian Sea . This temple is built on the Kanduka Hill which is surrounded on three sides by the waters of the Arabian Sea. It is dedicated to Sri Lokankara, and a 20-storied gopura is the prime attraction of the the temple. According to the legend, Ravana brought the Atma Lingam from Mount Kailash. Lord Ganesha using his trick fooled Ravana on his way to Lanka and put down the Linga on the ground at Gokarna. Angered by this, Ravana tried to uproot and destroy the Linga. The broken pieces of the lingam were cast away. The covering cloth of the lingam fell at Kanduka Giri and the Murudeshwar temple was built at this site.
How to Get There:
Mangalore International Airport is the nearest airport which is 160 km away from Murudeshwar. Murdeshwar station lies on the Konkan Railway. Some trains from Mumbai and Mangalore stop here. There is one direct train from Bangalore (Train No. 16517, Karwar Express). Starting at 20:30 hrs from Yeshwantpur, which is in the outskirts of Bangalore, it reaches Murdeshwar at 12 noon.
Apart from Mangalore International Airport, Hubli and Panaji airports are other alternatives.
30 MARCH 2018
Jaunt to Kodajadri hills, Rendezvous of heaven and earth
Enthusiasm and eagerness pumped into ventricles and arteries every second. The 23 km Jeep journey to the foot of Kudajadri Hills was synonymous of a rollicking adventure. Moods roller-coastered from excitement to nervousness. The last 8 km in the midst of woods gave me vibes on the destination. One could hardly call it a road, just an inchoate passage over rocks. Hats off to those local Jeep drivers who transport people to and fro several times a day. The wind blew in red dust that made designs in the palette of bodies using the medium of sweat. Jeeps halt at the foot of the mountain near a small temple.
The green pond facing the temple bubbled countless emotions like fish popping up to its surface. As one group step up, another bunch amble down. Curiosity urged to discard the common path and choose a different one. It was narrow, steep and tough. Leaves on both sides were titillating. Unknown bushes and enormous trees rendered an enchanting ambience.
Like my wild thoughts, it appeared a path leading nowhere. Panting and sweating did not vex the thrill.
Soon a narrow cave dedicated to Lord Ganapati could be seen. Surprisingly, a child was doing the offerings there. Perhaps innocence is the pathway to God. Rest on the rocks before the cave, made breaths steady. The uphill hike resumed soon. The long way cast in a lot of emotions. One could contemplate and retrospect a lot during such walks. Was this truth that inspired Adi Sankara to select that very spot for his meditation? Seeing the destination at a distance ,heart palpitated faster. Eddies of mist rose from the valleys deep down. Crowd who moved up and down did not disturb my solitude. The tryst with peace is to be encountered alone. The zenith of the mountain and the ‘sarvajna Peetam’ aroused vibrant ebullience inside. The mute corners of the universe can edify any soul. Closing the eyes, one can hear the heart beats of the creator. Amassing a heart full of positive energy, I strode down the mountain. At the foot of the hill, a blushed setting Sun waved goodbye.
The return trip began with the Moon Rise. I closed my eyes. The entire day moved through minds gallery as rear view mirror images. A day as intoxicating as a reverie.
31 March 2018
Trotting to Malpey, transition from hills to waves
Wanderlust takes one to distant lands. Peregrination is an everlasting passion for some. The morning journey from kollur was alluring. Soon, the woods vanished and the highway lay black and long ahead. On one side of the road Souparnika river giggled in different tones at different spots and on the other side blue waters of the ocean tittered. Tempting seashore invited and the commute paused for a while at Maravanthe beach.Tasting tender coconuts in the shade of a tent, I inhaled the spirit of ocean. Ocean is like life – adventurous, challenging, calm, deep at different phases of life. The small shops along the highway appears like lanterns casting comfort and lights of information in the paths of travellers.
Malpey was waiting for me in the hot midday. It offers one a wide variety of water adventures even, scuba diving. The seafood delicacies cater the taste buds. Rambling along the seaside till 3 pm, a boat cruise to ST.MARY'S ISLAND started. 'water water everywhere' S.T Coleridge whispered in the core of my heart.
The reader in me contemplated on many sea faring literary works, as the boat tossed over the blue patches of waves.The rhythm of waves gives one ecstasy as it touches face with wet fingers. Cool breeze tapped on the shoulders as I leisurely entered the Peace beach on the island. The sand was all seashells and beach was all rocks. The dreamy mood of the hills gave way to a hullabaloo of excitement. Drenching in saline waters, I welcomed the mood swing. The wandering ended with the whistle from the serang of the boat. Strange sounds put an end to beautiful things. The canoe returned to Malpe.
The red horizon, the cool breeze, and the countless throngs on the beach enthused my weary being. Gazing at them amicably, from the room of the beach hotel, I awaited for the night fall.
What could be more romantic than a midnight walk on a deserted beach in the moonlight?
Ocean is so soothing in the night. It chuckles like granny, caress like mom, chatter and hum like a pal. It is a ravishing experience. Twilight made everything so dreamy. Even the thoughts of the chilly wind of that night gives me goosebumps. All these moments lay embedded in the panorama of my memories as holy water in a cascade to heal the boredom of mundane daily chores.
How to get there
Malpe is a located about 6 km to the west of Udupi. Mangalore International Airport is 59 km from Udupi. The airport is well-connected with major Indian cities and a few Middle-eastern destination.
Nearest Railhead: Udupi is a major station on the Konkan railway route. There are connections with Mumbai and Mangalore.
St. Mary's islands comprise of four small islands in the Arabian sea, off Malpe beach in Udupi. Old tales shows that, Vasco de Gama, the portuguese explorer landed at one of these islands after his expedition in 1498. He named this island "O Padrao de Santa Maria", as a dedication to Mother Mary. The current name is believed to have derived from this name. There are plenty of boats available from Malpe beach to islands. The last boat to that island is around 4:30 pm and from that island is at 6:00 pm.
Text: Jess Jose; Photos: M K Paul
Comments
Feels like, floating around, all over these places over your mesmerizing travelogue. Well written Jess.