Get lost in the woods at least once in a lifetime to awaken the naughty child slumbering deep inside the soul and anoint in the serenity of nature.
Text: Jess Jose; Photos: Ankith C Wilfred
Forest, the primitive home, has always been an unending fascination to man. The seven lush green valleys with its cool waters, soothing breeze, and fresh air make PARAMBIKULAM TIGER RESERVE an unparalleled spot of wild charm, casting its magic spell on every traveller. Located in the SUNGAM Range in the lap of Western Ghats between Anamalali and Nelliampathy hills sprawling at an elevation of 300 to 1438 meters, Parambikulam lifts your spirits much higher than that with its plethora of endemic flora and fauna.
An exciting fact about this forest strip is that though it belongs to kerala forest division (Muthalamada Panchayath, Kollengode Block, Chittur Taluk, Palakkad Dist), but the access is through the state of Tamil Nadu and it is a golden chance to traverse through different landscapes. The teeming hot Palakkad - Ambarapalayam road suddenly changes its texture at Sethumadai check post and as we move through anamalai tiger reserve to top slip the evergreen, shola, deciduous. Forests and grasslands lure the mind with its charisma. The beautiful curves, the mute dark corners of this undulating road lead us to the virtual paradise of amazing sights, the deep dense forest, the cradle for Tigers. An array of gathered info about the spot railed through mind during slow sluggish drive through the jungle. The clumps of bamboo appear like a canopy just opposite the check post at topslip captures anyones attention
On moving ahead, a beautifully sculptured arch welcomes us to the Tiger Reserve. Waiting for the jungle safari was quite amusing. The Officials at the information centre and the waitresses at the restaurant provided a lot to feed the curious queries. Ample parking space and neatly kept washrooms are available. The forty seven year old and two eighty five square kilometre wide reserve has been the home for Tribals (kadar, Malasar, Muduvar) who live in six different colonies in the jungle suburbs. The proud inhabitants of this World Heritage Site (As declared by UNESCO) engage the travellers in sight seeing, trekking, camping, rafting, distribution of eco friendly products as well as protection of this forest area. Chit chat with these natives created beautiful imprints of major landmarks of the locale.Parambikulam Tiger reserve is bordered to the North by Nenmara Forest Division, in the South lies the Vazhachal Forest area and on the west is the Chalakkudy Forest area. It is the heart of forests, the womb of wilderness.The adjacent Anamalai wildlife sanctuary adds more to the charming ambience.
Every journey is a way to the unknown and this forest exploration rendered new revelations. The uniqueness of the environment, new concepts on forest management, amusing ways of beasts, diversity of vegetation thrill the heart. Nature is an autonomous university that graduates you in various streams in a single encounter. Setting free at the hands of nature makes one learned and wise.
As the buses get filled the safari starts. With hushed voices, silenced breaths curious glances extend. “This forest is a home for numerous mammals , amphibians,birds, reptiles, fish, insects and butterflies”, explained the guide. Anxious eyes scanned the bushes for them. As the vehicles pass by the quarters of human stay to the core of the forest, the real kingdom of wild that is ajar. Bus, like another wild creature seeking the company of other beasts, slowed down wherever animals or birds were spotted.
The fauna of the forest kept on vamoosing along the wild pathways. Dancing peacocks, trapezing lion tailed macaques and langurs, grazing herds of gaurs and deers appealed gazes. The massive gaurs grazing like cattle in abundance justified the description of the spot as “State capital of massive gaurs” and these are the main prey of Tigers and Indian leopards of this reserve area. Tigers, the major attraction this wild life sanctuary can be located usually in January to March. Male tigers may have five mates and it hunts food for the mates when they are expecting. Knowing forest and its invisible commandments were indeed an interesting aspect of the commute. Herds of majestic elephants leisurely moved side by side. A pregnant elephant and with a calf was an amazingly unusual sight. Vociferous troops of birds and colourful butterflies were mesmerizing. Spectacular grey headed fishing eagle,bay owlwood pigeon,black capped kingfisher and black woodpeckers are spotted in these woods.The Nilgiri Marten (travancore squirrels) were seen on almost all the tree trunks. Not a second passed without gasping enthusiasm. The statistics of fauna provided by the Guides were astonishing. A forest cannot be explored in a single trip. All along our life nature keeps on surprising us in her own pretty ways. Luck plays a vital role and it defines our chances of meeting the wild friends. "Night Safari under the star spangled sky is more exciting, it has more chance of spotting Tigers and bears" told the Guide.This 3.5 hr journey that covers the entire reserve forest is a unique experience for nature lovers. Light and shadow play hide and seek amid the bushes and trees.
The first halt in the trip was the Dam viewpoint with panoramic view of the vast valley including adjacent towns. A narrow opening amid the rocks like a window that shows miles of green earth in a glimpse. The waters of reservoir lay like a gem far across the distance. The scenic beauty shaded by numberless shades of immodest greenery is fabulous.
Our guide amused us explaining about the lofty cliffs of the forest. Karimala gopura (The highest), pandavarai, kuchimudi, vengoli mala (most popular for it is easy to climb and one can spot Nilgiri tahr there), puliyara padam and thoothampara topped the list. Each peak offers spectacular views to the trekkers. Like a mighty fort these peaks guard this play ground of wilderness.
Forest and rivers are inseparable companions.Three rivers (Parambikulam, Sholayar, Thekkedy) and its tributaries (Karapar, Kuriarkutty) along with three human made reservoirs (Parambikulam, Thunakkadavu, Peruvaripallam) creates a perfect aquatic ambience in the area. Silvery Thuvaiar falls gets replenished in each monsoon season. The safari gives short breaks at all these dam sites. The bamboo island/peruvari island offers hospitality to the interested commuters. The bamboo raft ride to the island is thrilling The tranquil blue waters of the reservoirs fill the void inside. Silence and excitement, a rare combination in a nutshell is Parmbikulam.
The KANNIMARA TEAK ( corrupt form of irish connemara), known as the oldest ever tree of its kind is 450 years old and 49.5metres high. Central government acknowledged this venerable ancestor with the ‘mahavriksha puraskar’. This tree captivates attention and evokes awesome respect in the onlookers with its enormous trunk. The tribals of the locality believe in the divine presence in the tree and prayers are offered here, at certain intervals.
Every soil has its own tale of toil. Remnants of Kochi State Forest Tramway (1905-1953) resonate untold stories rather than the history of wood transported from these forests to Cochin port. Such close links of monarchy and trade arouse memories of the pre-independent period and awe for the age-old architectectural, engineering skills. A forest trip is always spicy in the company of a talkative guide. He poured his knowledge on the soil referring to the minerals like hornblade, biotite and charnockite found in this area. Anakkalvayal known as ‘dining table of parambikulam Tigers’ and 2 day trek to Muthuvarachal flashed through his lecture. No wonder the legendary ornithologist Dr. Salim Ali graced this sanctuary with his presence pursuing the feathery pals of this pristine forest.
A small township is on the way. Monumental stones in the middle declare the total literacy achievement of the tribal community is a milestone of development . Tiny shops run by the native people are hubs of information and rural delicacies.. The shop owner, an old lady muniyamma casually commented over a cup of tea ‘No need to fear beasts of the jungle, but beware of humans’. Her memories recounted the flood of 2018 and the huge forest fire of 2007 caused by scarcity in summer showers. Their concern for the forest imparts the hardcore truth that awareness of environment is the real knowledge one should acquire. The fish from the reservoir is served along with other forest products. The effective Participatory Forest Management Scheme is on the move here. Peacocks, pigs and monkeys were just moving around these crowded areas enthusing the young tourists. The climate is temperate tropical in general but this exotic spot is always cool under the shade of centuries old huge trees.
Romance, adventure or meditation, anything is possible at this magnificent location.
The woods, safari, sights and beauty linger fresh in the memory lane. Insight, inspiration, tranquility and exhilaration wrapped together in an imperceptible gift box is offered to anyone who wanders along these pretty pathways.
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